• A great big gecko critique!

    Welcome to the “Critique Our Collection Post”

    Scroll down for the pictures.

    All comments and opinions are welcome under these three conditions: 1) You currently breed crested geckos. 2) If you say anything negative, you give a reason. To further explain part 2, I can’t learn anything if you say, “This gecko sucks”, However if you say, “This gecko sucks because he has terrible head structure”, I can learn and get better from that critique. 3) Give it to me straight. I want to get better, and I’ll take honesty over BS any day.

     Please email responses to firedupgeckos@gmail.com

     

    Your thoughts on:

    Thor –

    Siph –

    Pyre –

    Gremlin –

    Digger –

    Ash –

    Bacardi –

    Brandy –

    Scarlet –

    Solaris –

    Kurtis –

    Ember –

    Gatsby –

    Lyra –

    Flint –

     

    If you could pair my geckos, who would you pair? You can write none too.

    Pair 1 –

    Pair 2 –

    Pair 3 –

    Pair 4 –

    Pair 5 –

    Add more if you want.

     

    Any additional comments? 

     

     

    Here’s some general info on our collection.

    *In general, I’ve been really bad at gathering lineage info. I’m trying to rectify that but at this time, I have lineage for Bacardi and Brandy only. I know that’s kind of crappy.

    * Just because I’ve said who I plan on pairing doesn’t make that a good idea. If you think I have a bad idea, I want to know!

     

    Thor – male – I love his color and his giant head. Paired with Siph, they make nice creamsicles.

    Thor

     

    Siph – female – She’s so light! She’s fired here. I liked pairing her with Thor since he adds his orange to the mix and she adds her patterning. I don’t like her head but I like Thor’s head and I’m incubating their eggs are a low temp, so I’ll see how that goes.

    Siph2

     

    Pyre – female – I think she’s pretty but she won’t lay for me. Not sure what to do. It might be that she’s on the heavy end? I’m trying to get her to lose a few grams. I might try her again next year with Digger.

    Pyre

     

    Gremlin – female – I pair her with Digger but I think I’ll pair her with Gatsby when he’s big enough. I love her lats and I have one baby that’s a 99% full pin from her so I know she can make full pinners.

    Gremlin

     

    Digger – male – I like his high contrast and big head. He’s made some nice looking babies with Gremlin. He’s my main man right now.

    Digger

     

    Ash – potential female -7g – This kid is changing colors on me. Ash started creamy, and is darkening now. Either way, I like the pinning and I’m hoping the lats will fill in and bright up.

    Ash

     

    Bacardi – male – 11g – I love everything about his pattern and if my luck holds, I’ll be pairing him with Brandy.

    Bacardi

     

    Brandy – potential female – 5g – Same with Bacardi. I love her dorsal and lats. Hopefully paired with Bacardi, unless she drops balls on me.

    Brandy

     

    Scarlet – potential female – 8g – I want to make red geckos with yellow or cream markings so I’m hoping to pair Scarlet with Scorch.

    Scarlet

     

    Solaris – female – 32g – I like her bright yellow coloration and was maybe thinking of pairing her with Thor since I like creamsicle babies.

    Solaris

     

    Kurtis – male – I actually don’t have any plans for him since he lives with my parents, but he is available to me, since I’m his babysitter.

    Kurtis

     

    Ember – female – 39g – Oh Ember. She started off red and her sibling is bright red and yellow. She kind of turned orangy brown. She has red and black spots and that’s kind of neat. I don’t know. I’m not sure what to do with Ember. I was planning on her and Scorch, maybe?

    Ember2

     

    Gatsby – male – 25g – I hope for him to be a good male breeder for me soon, but Gremlin is pretty big so I might be to wait, or get him another girlfriend. He fires Black with a capital B.

    Gatsby

     

    Lyra – female – 22g – My concern with Lyra is she not very clean. She fires a very nice citrus orange color and can be very pretty, but I’m not sure about the spots. I like the citrus colored gecko look though.

    Lyra

     

    Flint – male – 17g – I like his base color. He is from red parents but he fires a warm charcoal grey and his white and orange crests really “pop” against it. I’ve never seen a gecko with his base color and I’d like to try to make more, especially if I can get really contrasting crests.  I’m not sure how to go about that. I’m also not sure if it a new base color to me and is common elsewhere.

    Flint

    Scorch – male – 18g – He fires bright red and yellow. I love the red he can achieve.

    Scorch

     

     

    Special thanks to Blue Amrich Studio for taking all these photos! Thanks, Blue!

    Blue-Amrich-Studio_rectangle-logo

  • When to move a hatchling from a shoe box tub to a 10 gallon?

    Back in April, I made this post of the Pangea forums

    I’ve noticed something interesting; I only have data from 2 geckos so keep that in mind.

    I normally keep hatchlings in shoebox tubs until they are 5g, and then I switch them to a 10 gallon. A few months ago I purchased 3g crestie and put him in a tub. He never fired but seemed healthy enough in all other respects. (I understand firing is not indicative of good health).

    When he reached 5g, I put him in a ten gallon and noticed he fired a lot more, moved more, and seemed more “vital”, if that makes sense.

    I purchased another 3g gecko, and put him in a tub as well. Once again he never fired, but this one also barely ate. At 4g, I put him in a 10 gallon and immediately saw an increase in feeding and firing. He’ll even wait on his ledge on new food day. 

    It’s been crazy cold here, my house has been from 65-70 degrees the whole time I’ve owned them.

    I just figured it was interesting.

     

    I wrote that and didn’t think much of it afterwards. This brings me to my next tiny gecko, Cherry Scone, now Brandy, that I bought in June. I forget the her exact weight when I bought her but if memory serves, she was just a hair shy of 5g, so I made a tub for her. Like the two geckos mentioned above, she never fired, barely seemed to move, and ate very little.

    I figured it was not big deal. She was tiny and in a new house and probably scared. She always looked healthy when I handled her and was eating and going to the bathroom, just not too much. I made a 10 gallon vertical setup for her last night and put her in it. Today, 1/2 of her adult portion of food is gone! I honestly think she ate her head size in PFMC (apricot and banana combo). I’m very pleased with this result!

    I’ve had immediate improvement in feeding as soon as I put them in a larger cage. On the other hand, my brand new baby hatchlings are thriving in their tubs, but they are only about 2.5g.

    This leads me to wonder, should I switch over to a 10 gallon at 3-4 g? Let me know your thoughts!

     

  • Why we house our geckos separately

    On Facebook and forums, I’ve seen a lot of people asking if they can house their geckos together. In general, I’m inclined to always answer, “no”. Many times, someone will respond with a response similar to the following: “I’ve been doing it for years and all my hatchlings are fine.” or  “I’m a bigger breeder than you, so I know more than you, and I say it’s fine.” or “It’s always okay to do with babies and females.” or “Sure, just make sure you only have one male in the lot.”

    Everyone is entitled to their opinions, myself included, so here is my response to the above statements.

     

    “I’ve been doing it for years and all my hatchlings are fine.”

    One thing we should all remember is that most people asking this question online are beginners, not experienced reptile keepers. I’ve read numerous posts about hatchlings biting each others limbs and tails. Just do a google search and I’m sure you’ll find some. I like to house my animals separately because it’s a guarantee that they are safe. I know each one is eating. I know if they are going to the bathroom. There is zero chance that they can bully each other. To me, the risks are too high. It takes a fraction of a second for a fight to happen, one that could potentially damage your pet for the rest of his/her life. Housing hatchlings in bins costs about $5.00 per bin. (See our tutorial here: http://www.firedupgeckos.com/do-it-yourself/hatchling-bin/ In my opinion, there is no reason to house them together.

     

    “I’m a bigger breeder than you, so I know more than you, and I say it’s fine.”

    See my response to the statement above. Maybe you have been doing it successfully for years, but are you okay with a brand new gecko owner keeping them together? I’m not.

     

    “It’s always okay to do with babies and females.”

    Again, I disagree. Some babies bully each other, and I’ve heard that with proper monitoring, it can be dealt with. Are you willing to give that advice to someone who has never owned a gecko before? As with females, I have housed them together successfully, but there is always the potential for them to fight. I feel that saying it’s always okay, 100% of the time, is inaccurate. I prefer to say, “adult, 35g+ females of similar size may be kept in the same enclosure. However, they may fight, so one should be prepared to house separately if need be.” In my opinion, that is far better advice to give to a first time gecko owner.

     

    “Sure, just make sure you only have one male in the lot.”

    This one baffles me. Are you assuming that this random person online is ready to breed their geckos? Most new gecko owners have no idea how readily crested geckos mate. They are also unaware that one mating can equal a lot of babies. Of course, that male won’t be fighting other males if he’s the only one in the tank, but he’ll be shacking up with all the ladies. I have one male that I can only keep in with a female for a week. He’s so aggressive that he’ll mate her to exhaustion. I almost found that out the hard way. Luckily, I saw how exhausted she was before going away for the weekend and was able to separate, sauna, and properly feed her before I left. She was literally laying nearly lifeless in the dirt when I found her. (My roommate also cares for crested geckos so I did leave her in good hands, rest assured.) This female made a full recovery and has given me many great eggs, but only because I knew to check her before I left. In my opinion, this is worst answer to give a beginner out there.

     

    Once again, these are my opinions and how I care for my animals. However, if you’re a new gecko owner and would like a second opinion, I want to recommend the Pangea Gecko forums (http://www.pangeareptile.com/forums/index.php) and not Facebook. Facebook has a lot of people who will very confidently tell someone the wrong answer, while the people of the Pangea forums have never once let me down in my quest for gecko knowledge.

    If these rambling of mine have offended you. I apologize, and we must agree to disagree.

  • How can I afford to do all these crafts?

    I recently got and email asking me how much it would be to make a hatching tub and a custom background. I thought it was a great question, and so I’ve posted my response here:

     

    How much it would be to make a hatching tub and a custom background?

    Hmmm, it’s a tid bit tricky due to cost of tools and tank size. If you have all the tools, it’s a lot less. Little tanks need less foam, silicon, coco, ect.

    Tools are usually a one time expense and can open the doors to a whole world of crafting! I’ll try to give you some ball park prices, assume a 1-2 dollar variation depending on the store you use and your state.

    Number = estimated dollar amount

    These are your 3 essential tools

    Utility knife – 3

    Caulking gun – 5

    Saw – 8

     

    Other stuff

    Tub – 1

    Plants – 1 each ( or a hell of a lot more if you don’t use dollar store plants)

    Dishes – 1

    1 tube of Glue/silicon/caulk – 5

    1 can of Great stuff – 7 (15 for black)

    Cork (med) – 8

    * Use found wood that you bleach and bake for the free version – no sappy trees

    Coco fiber – 8

    Paint – 2

    Brushes – 4

    Rubber gloves – unknown – my bag is so old

    Foam – 8

    *If you get foam from Home depot or Lowes you’ll need to buy the whole sheet ($15 ish). If I do that, I make sure I have the dimensions for a few cages/other projects I have in mind and I have them cut up the entire sheet just how I want it.

    Pots for plants – I try for free. But plastic pots from a nursery, ends of pvc pipes, scrap bamboo, the caps from the great stuff, plastic cups from the dollar store all work.

     

    I’m poor so here’s how I would do it.

    Hit the dollar store first, buy everything from that list that you can at the Dollar store. Then figure out what you need from the hardware store and compare those prices with amazon. Check out craigslist and free sites as well. Almost anything is free if you’re willing to wait and look around 🙂

    I think buying wood is a rip off so if you can’t get it from craigslist or someplace crazy cheap, just go harvest your own. Get old, very dry, dead stuff w/o bark. No sap too! Scrub it down like crazy with bleach. Then bake it at 280 degrees for 45 mins.

    You also don’t NEED to embed wood into the background, it’ll still work fine without it.

     

    Good luck and let me know if there’s anything I didn’t cover.

  • DIY: Hatchling Tub

    The new tutorial is up: http://www.firedupgeckos.com/do-it-yourself/hatchling-bin/

    Please check it out!

     

    Here are a few images from it.

     

    IMG_0491 IMG_0493 IMG_0499 IMG_0505 IMG_0509